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1995 993 Hood Strut Replacement

Body

Vehicle Information: Year: 1995; Body Type: Coupe;

Just saw your response to replacing hood struts. Here is a description of what I went through in replacing same. I wrote this up for the local club news letter, but may have never sent it in to them. In fact I gave up on 2nd strut for engine compartment and ended up having dealer's service department install it, which they did as part of an annual service and as a no charge favor to me since I had already purchased the part form their parts department.Len MyersLone Star RegionGas Strut Replacement 1995 993Parts:2 Hood Gas Strut 993-511-331-002 Deck Lid Gas Strut 911-512-331-014 Pin 999-166-043-02 the old pins and clips can probably be2 Pin 999-166-010-02 reused, but they are cheap, and the old6 Lock ring (clip) N-012-645-2 ones will show signs of wear.Note front and rear struts are different, they use the same clips to secure pins, but the pins are of different lengths. I used my PCNA $100 coupon for these parts and the purchase of some other items from my local Porsche dealer.Required tools: Long skinny arms, sleeve length of 34" or greater with small hands. A tall thin woman would be able to do this job easier than an average man.Strong small light to light up area where struts attach to body. (Average shop light is too large)Long nose pliers that have fairly small tips.Long nose locking pliers.Tapered punch to line up strut holes with holes in attachment points.Fender cover or some other type of heavy protective coverFlexible magnetic tool to retrieve dropped pins and clipsNo need to loosen or mess with hinges or alignment of hood and/or engine cover.Start with front left strut in luggage compartment. Easiest of four units to get to and to see. Raise hood and somehow secure it in full open position. One suggestion is to use a rope or long bungee cord from hood catch to a rafter in your garage above the hood. Worked quite well for me.Place fender cover under corner of hood and overlap part of opening and onto windshield. This is just in case hood contacts body during procedure.Remove plastic cover that is just ahead of windshield by gently pulling up on rubber seal between trunk and trunk carpet. Work space is tight and awkward for both your hands and head. No need to remove carpet. May find a small extra amount of room to work by removing Pollen Filter covers. Note clips and how wiring folds into slots on covers.Identify what type of securing method is used by strut in subject car. Early cars used a strut with ball and socket attachment to car, and used a small wire like spring that wraps around outside of socket and the other end is inserted through two small holes that lock socket to the ball. The spring is easy to see with a good light. Pull it away from strut and pull up to remove it. Once this spring is removed strut can be pulled and/or pried off of ball. Later cars and replacement struts use an internal spring clip that captures ball. Much easier to remove and to replace.At top of strut where it attaches to trunk lid, pull off spring retainer clip. Can be removed with fingers or if tight, small needle nose pliers. Note orientation, one position appears to be correct when clip is in place, a second position is used while removing and installing clip. Pull pin from holes. Gently push up on trunk lid. You should be able to get enough room to remove top of strut from pocket that it is in. Replacement is reverse of removal.For the right front strut, procedure is almost the same except that work space is much tighter. This strut may also have a plastic cover (what is the purpose of this cover?) over the lower part of the strut that snaps over ball and socket. Pull the cover up and wedge it to get it out of your way. Remove lower end of strut and upper end as done for left strut. Remove cover from old strut and install on new strut and install new strut in reverse order.Reinstall Pollen Filter covers and wires in clips. Install plastic cover. Remove bungee cord. Try out new struts, you will no longer need to hold hood up with your head.Engine compartment lid. These struts are both harder and easier to replace, harder to access but easier design to work with. This is where long arms and thin hands would be of benefit. The rear struts have clips and pins at both ends. Note pins are different lengths.Same procedure is needed to secure engine lid in open position. Again a long bungee cord fastened to latch and to ceiling of garage worked well. Allow engine to cool, as you will be working very close to some areas that could be hot.Right side is fairly accessible. First open air filter cover and remove filter, place these aside. This will allow you just enough room to get your hand back to remove clip from pin. Push out pin. If you have dropped the pin and/or clip, use magnet to fish them out. Remove clip and pin from bracket on lid, push lid up just enough to allow strut to fall out of bracket. Installation is reverse order, but very difficult to locate pin in hole and strut at back of engine compartment, you do this by feel, as you can not get both hands and your head in to see what you are doing at the same time. Long nose locking pliers will help to get pin and clip started.Reinstall air filter and cover.At this point, new strut will hold your engine lid open. You may wish to rethink need to replace left side. This strut is in the most inaccessible location and you will need to remove blower and some other items on the top of the engine for access. I may let dealers mechanic install this last strut.It took me about 2.5 hours to replace the three struts. Most of the time was figuring out how to get access and how they were secured. I could probably now replace all three in less than an hour.

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